Woven fabric and method of producing same



Jan. 23, 1945. w wE ET AL 2,367,744

WOVEN FABRIC AND METHOD OF PRODUCING SAME Filed Sept. 15, 1942 2Sheets-Sheet l UMNWBMN-NMHM LJA IN V EN TORJ' AT TORNEYJ Jan. 23, 1945-R. WHEWELL ETAL 2,367,744

WOVEN FABRIC AND METHOD OF PRODUCING SAME Filed Sept. 15, 1942 2Sheets-Sheet 2' INVEN TO J y; p g-g #06 en We we//9 Andrew Bauec/nPatented Jan. 23, 1945 WOVEN FABRIC AND METHOD OF PRODUCING SAME RobertWhewell, New Bedford, Mass, and Andrew Bauer, Jr., Garden City, N. Y.,assignors, by mesne assignments, to United Merchants & Manufacturers,Inc., Wilmington, Del., a corporation of Delaware Application September15, 1942, Serial No. 453,384

14 Claims.

This invention relates to a woven fabric havin aplain body portion of arelatively close weave and contrasting portions of an open weave and themethod of weaving such fabric.

An object of this invention is to produce a woven fabric having a plainbody with contrasting portions of an open weave forming a pattern ordesign therein simulating filigree work, Other objects and advantages ofthis invention will be apparent from the following description and theannexed drawings in which selected embodiments of the invention'areshown and in which Fig. 1 is an enlarged plan view of the front or faceof a fabric embodying the invention;

Fig. 2 is an enlarged plan view of the front or face of a fabric withcertain modifications over the fabric shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged plan view of the front or face of a fabricembodying the invention but having a slightly different weave; and

Fig. 4 is also an enlarged plan view of the front or face of a fabricembodyin the invention and having further variation in the weave.

Referring to the drawings in detail, in Fig. 1 there is a woven fabricin which the warp threads are numbered from l to 16, inclusive, and theweft threads from 20 to 36, inclusive. As is well, known, the warpthreads pass through and are manipulated by the harnes of the loom toengage the weft threads in the manner hereinafter described.

In the body I! of the fabric, the warp and weft threads are woven in arelatively close plain weave. In contrast to the body portion H, theWarp and Weft threads in certain other portions N3 of the fabric areinterwoven in a manner to form an open weave resembling what is commonlyreferred to as filigree Work. The portions of the fabric consisting ofthis open weave are arranged to form a desired pattern in the fabric.The close Weave of the body portion illustrated herein is an ordinarysquare Weave, but it ispossible to vary this by utilizing any weave of arelatively close character, such as a 1 x 2 weave for this portion ofthe fabric. The term relatively close weave is intended to includeweaves of such a character that they will present a contrast to theportions of open weave.

The portions l8 of the open weave are formed by weaving two or more warpthreads in even numbers in a leno weave. This leno weave consists ofcrossing a warp thread 8 under an odd number of adjoining warp threads,namely, warp threads 5, 6 and" 1 and then carrying it over an odd numberof weft threads, namely, weft threads ber of warp threads withan oddnumber of weft threads under the loop of said leno. I 1

The warp thread 8 is then carried over the next weft thread 28 andthereafter the procedure which has just been described is repeated withthe warp threads and the succeeding weft threads and this is continueduntil the desired pattern is formed. The number of weft threads includedin succeeding loops of the leno may be varied as the five and onearrangement already described or, as will be described more fully inconnection with Fig. 3, the number of weft threads included insucceeding loops of the leno weave may be kept uniform (with theexception there noted). However, an arrangement such as the five and onealternation in weft threads illustrated in Fig. 1 has been found to havecertain desirable features in that it tends to emphasize the open effectand to form a firmer weave.

Continuing with the description of Fig. 1, the weft threads 29, 30, 3|,32 and 33 included under the loop of the leno are interwoven with theWarp threads 5, 6 and 1 in the following manner: The central weft thread3| of this group is.interwoven with the warp threads 5, 6 and 1 formingthe leno and adjacent the loop thereof in the usual manner, i. e., overone warp thread and under the next warp thread. Weft threads 38 and 32immediately adjacent said central thread are floated under the warpthreads 5, 6 and 1,

7 thus leaving these weft threads entirely free of the warp threads inthe leno. The outer weft threads 29 and 33 of' this group are carriedover the warp threads 5, 6 and 1, although, as previously' pointed out,the loop formed by warp thread 8 extends over these weft threads,thereby holding them to the fabric. With such an arrangment the loop ofthe leno weave formed by the warp thread 8 engages with the weft threads29, 3 0, 32 and Hand urges them toward the central weft thread 3! andsince these threads are not interwoven with the warp thread in the usualmanner, they are more or less free to move relative to the warp threadsand toward the central weft thread 3|. the second loop of the leno istreated as a central thread and is interwoven with the warp threads 5, 6and I. Succeeding sets of weft threads are thereafter woven in a similarmanner with these warp threads until the desired pattern has beenformed.

The single weft thread 28 underv In the drawings, the individual weftthreads comprising the open portions [8 have been shown somewhatseparated for clarity, but actually these threads have a tendency tooverlap each other to a certain extent.

Where there are more weft threads under the loop of the leno, the sameprocedure is followed as has already been described and the additionalweft threads are alternately woven under and over the warp threads inthe order just described.

The procedure in weaving the warp threads 9, I0, II and I2 adjoining thewarp threads just discussed is the same as that which has been d scussedand this procedure may be followed with adjoining warp threads and willbe continued until the desired pattern is formed.

After the fabric has been woven in the manner just described, it ispreferably subjected to further treatment to produce the fabricillustrated in Fig. 2. I

The fabric shown in Fig. 2 is the same as that which has been describedin connection with Fig. 1, but in this figure the weft threads 30 and 32immediately adjacent the central weft thread 3|, which were floatedunder the warp threads throughout the pattern area, have been removed.The removal of these weft threads is done after the fabric is woven asdescribed above and may be done in a manner well known in the art, suchas putting the cloth on a shearing machine and shearing these threadsfrom the fabric throughout the pattern area. This permits the loops ofthe leno to draw the remaining weft threads 2 9 and 33 more closely tothe central weft thread 3| and thus produces a decidedly more openeffect.

Fig. 3 illustrates a, fabric woven in accordance with our invention butdiffering from the previously described fabrics in that each loop of theleno formed by the warp thread 8 is carried over an equal number of weftthreads. In this figure, the successive sets of weft threads have beennumbered 29 to 33'; 31 to 4|, and 42 to 46, inclusive. Where an equalnumber of weft threads are included in each loop in the leno, the numberof weft threads in such instances must be more than a s ngle weft threadin order to produce the desired open effect.

As a practical matter, it is not desirable to include more than nineweft threads in a single loop of the leno. Further variations over thefabric shown may be made by varying the number of weft threads includedin different loops of the leno weave so long as the requirement thatthere be an odd number is adhered to; thus there may be five weftthreads included in the first loop of the leno; three weft threadsincluded in the second loop of the leno and five weft threads includedin the third loop of the leno, and so forth.

Fig. 4 illustrates a further variation in the open weave of a fabricwoven in accordance with our invention. The fabric differs from theothers in that the number of warp threads forming the leno has beenincreased to six. In this Weave, the warp end 52 is crossed under theadjoining five warp threads 41, 48, 49, 50, and 5|. Aside from thisdifference, the procedure and weave of this fabric is the same as thatwhich has already been described. Other variations in the number of warpthreads forming the leno are possible so long as there is an even numberof such warp threads, but it is not practical with the present The samenumbering has been applied to the various elements in the differentfigures in so far as possible.

While the invention has been shown as embodied in certain selectedforms, it is to be understood that various changes in details may bemade without departing from the scope of the invention as defined by theappended claims.

We claim:

1. A woven fabric consisting of a series of warp threads and a series ofweft threads interwoven to form a body portion of a relatively closeweave and contrasting portions of an open weave, said open weavecomprising a leno weave consisting of two or more warp threads in evennumbers with three or more weft threads in odd numbers machinery of aloom to cross more than five warp.

threads in a leno weave.

included in the loop of the leno, the central weft thread beinginterwoven with the warp threads forming the leno and adjacent the loopthereof in the usual manner, and the weft threads on either side of saidcentral weft thread being alternately under or over said warp threads.

2. A woven fabric consisting of a series of warp threads and a series ofweft threads interwoven to form a body portion of a relatively closeweave and contrasting portions of an open weave, said open weavecomprising a leno weave consisting of from two to six warp threads ineven numbers with three or more weft threads in odd numbers included inthe loop of said leno, the central weft thread being interwoven with thewarp threads forming the leno and adjacent the loop thereof in the usualmanner, and the weft threads on either side of central weft thread beingalternately under or over said warp threads.

3. A woven fabric consisting of a series of warp threads and a series ofweft threads interwoven to form a body portion of a relatively closeweave and contrasting portions of an open weave, said open weavecomprising a leno weave consisting of from two to six warp threads ineven numbers with from three to nine weft threads in odd numbersincluded in a loop of said leno and with from one to three weft threadsincluded in a succeeding loop of the leno, the central weft threads ineach set of weft threads enclosed in on loop of the leno beinginterwoven with the warp threads forming the leno and adjacent the loopthereof in the usual manner, the weft threads on either side of thecentral Weft thread being alternately under or over said warp threads,whereby said weft threads are free to move relative to said warpthreads.

4. A woven fabric consisting of a series of warp threads and a series ofweft threads interwoven to form a body portion of a relatively closeweave and contrasting portions of an open weave, said open weavecomprising a leno weave consisting of two or more warp threads in evennumbers with three or more weft threads in odd numbers included in theloop of the leno, the central weft thread being interwoven with the warpthread forming the leno and adjacent the loop thereof in the usualmanner, and the weft threads on either side of said central weft threadbeing alternately under or over said warp threads, said openlywovenportions having the weft threads extending under said warp threadssheared off adjacent the closely woven portion of the fabric.

5. A woven fabric consisting of a series of warp threads and a series ofweft threads interwovento form a body portion of a relatively closeweave and contrasting portions of an open weave; said open weavecomprising a leno weave consistingof from two to six warp threads ineven numbers with three or more weft threads in odd numbers included inthe loop of said leno, the central weft thread being interwoven with thewarp thread forming the leno and adjacent the loop thereof in the usualmanner, the weft threads on either side of said central weft threadbeing alternately under or over said warp threads, said openlywovenportions having the weft threads extending under said warp threadssheared on adjacent the closely woven portion of the fabric.

6. A woven fabric consisting of a series of warp threads and a series ofweft threads interwoven to form a body portion of a relatively closeweave and contrasting portions of an open weave, said open weavecomprising a leno Weave consisting of from two to six warp threads ineven numbers with from three to nine Weft threads in odd numbersincluded in a loop of said leno and with from one to three weft threadsincluded in the succeeding loop of the leno, the central weft threads ineach set of weft threads enclosed in one loop of the leno beinginterwoven with the warp threads forming the leno and adjacent the loopthereof in the usual manner, the weft threads on either side of thecentral weft thread being alternately under or over said warp threads,whereby said weft threads will be free to move relative to said warpthreads, said openly-woven portions having the weft threads extendingunder said warp threads sheared off adjacent the plain portion of thefabric.

7. A woven fabric consisting of a series of warp threads and a series ofweft threads interwoven to form a body portion of a relatively closeweave and contrasting portions of an open weave, said open weavecomprising a leno weave consisting of four warp threads with five weftthreads included in a loop of said leno and with one weft threadincluded in a succeeding loop of the leno, the central Weft threads inthe first set of Weft threads and the single weft thread enclosed in theloops of the leno being interwoven with the warp threads forming theleno and adjacent the loop thereof in the usual manner, the weft threadsimmediately adjacent the central weft thread open weave comprising aleno weave consisting of four warp threads with five weft threadsincluded in a loop of said leno and with one weft thread included in asucceeding loop of the leno, the central weft thread in the first set ofWeft threads and the single weft thread enclosed in the loops of theleno being interwoven with the warp threads forming the leno andadjacent the loop thereof in the usual manner, the weft threadsimmediately adjacent the central weft thread being under said warpthreads and the weft threads immediately adjacent said last-men tionedweft threads being over said warp threads, whereby said weft threadswill be free to move relative to said warp threads. said openly-wovenportions having the weft threads extending under the warp threadsremoved from the fabric.

9. The method of weaving a portion of a woven fabric in an open weavecomprising weaving two or more warp threads in even numbers in a lenoweave with three or more weft threads in odd numbers in' each loop ofsaid leno weavepweaving the central weft thread of each set of weftthreads included in one loop of the leno weave with the warp threadsforming the leno and ad jacent the loop thereof in the usual manner,floating the weft threads immediately adjacent the central weft threadunder said warp threads, and carrying the weft threads immediatelyadjacent the last-mentioned weft threads over said warp threads andthereafter alternating said procedure in sequence for additional weftthreads included in the loop of the leno, thereby producing an openweave at such portion of the fabric.

10. The method of weaving a portion of a woven fabric in an open weavecomprising weaving two or more warp threads in even numbers in a lenoweave with three or more weft threads in odd numbers in each loop ofsaid leno weave, weaving the central weft thread of each set of weftthreads included in a loop of the leno weave with the warp threadsforming the leno and adjacent the loop thereof in the usual manner,floating the weft threads immediately adjacent the central weft threadunder said warp threads and carrying the weft threads immediatelyadjacent the last-mentioned weft threads over said warp threads andthereafter alternating said procedure in sequence for additional weftthreads included in the loop of the leno, and shearing the weft threadsfloated under the warp threads from the fabric, thereby producing anopen weave at such portion of the fabric.

11. The method of weaving a portion of a woven fabric in an open weavecomprising weaving of from two to six warp threads in even numbers in aleno weave with from three to nine weft threads in odd numbers in eachloop of said leno weave, weaving the central weft thread of each set ofweft threads included in one loop of the leno weave with the warpthreads forming the leno and adjacent the loop thereof in the usualmanner, floating the weft threads immediately adjacent the centralthread under said warp threads and carrying the weft threads immediatelyadjacent the last-mentioned weft threads over said warp threads andthereafter alternating said procedure in sequence for additional weftthreads included in the loop of the leno.

12. The method of weaving a portion of a woven fabric in an open weavecomprising weaving of from two to six warp threads in even numbers in aleno weave with from three to nine weft threads in odd numbers in eachloop of said leno weave, weaving the central weft thread of each set ofweft threads included in one loop of the leno weave with the warpthreads forming the leno and adjacent the loop thereof in the usualmanner, floating the weft threads immediately adjacent the centralthread under said warp threads and carrying the weft threads immediatelyadjacent the last-mentioned weft threads over said warp threads andthereafter alternating said procedure in sequence for additional weftthreads included in the loop of the leno, and removing the weft threadsfloated under the warp threads from the fabric.

13. The method of weaving a portion of a woven fabric in an open weavecomprising weaving four warp threads in a leno weave with five weftthreads in one loop of the said leno and a single weft thread in asucceeding loop of said leno,

weaving the central weft thread of: the first mentioned weft threads andthe single weftthread with the warp threads forming the leno andadjacent the loop thereof in the usual manner, floating the weft threadsimmediately adjacent the central weft thread under said warp threads,and carrying the weft threads immediately adjacent the last-mentionedweft threads over said warp threads.

14. The method of weaving a portion of a woven fabric in an open weavecomprising weaving four warp threads in a leno weave with five weftthreads in one loop of said leno and a

